Olympiad | At twenty-three, she is a national team veteran. He dreams of Paris and says: Restrictions have not led to anything good

Not only the International Climbing Federation has announced that it will focus on the problem of food intake in view of the heavy load.

Climbing is a sport where you have to find a balance between strength and weight. You pull your body up, otherwise it won’t. The problem that is being talked about is not just for girls.

Are you on a special diet?

I try not to restrict, it never led to anything good. I want to eat enough, even if this is the opposite of what I should look like as an ideal female climber. It’s a conflict I’m still dealing with. I try to eat healthier so I can train longer. Diet is a closed and big topic for all sports and competitors. I’ve been through something in the past, but I’m more mature now and I know what I think is right.

Do you even have time to look after yourself?

Life management is logically important for every athlete. I try to do what I can. In addition to individual training, I lead children and study. I have a lot going on, so I have to take care of myself a lot.

Is it true that you don’t eat meat?

Yes, twelve years already. I just stopped liking it, I switched to vegetarianism through veganism. I have no basic ethical reason for it. As I say, I just don’t like meat and I don’t need to eat it.

One of the highlights of the season awaits you now. The qualification series for the Olympics will take place in May in Shanghai and a month later in Budapest.

We will end up competing for 12 places. We can be happy that they increased our number by two more. The chance to qualify for the Olympics has increased, but the competition is really big. Paris is a big attraction for me. I have never been there and wanted to go to the Games, even if I am not nominated. The European fans are great, it’s going to be a great event. And parents could also come and see. France is simply very attractive.

How much do you struggle with being raced in a combination of your stronger difficulty and bouldering?

When a person wants to be nominated and dedicate his life to it, he accepts the rules. I work with what is. If I had to think about everything and tell myself that it annoys me, it would take a lot of mental strength. This is how I try to prepare and I know that at the next Olympics rope and bouldering will be separate. There are supposed to be three sets of medals for climbing in Los Angeles, plus speed, which is already special now.

Do you feel a visible improvement on the boulders?

It’s going very slowly. I can see the improvement, but sometimes I feel a little old, that the body does not learn so quickly. (smile) I have to repeat everything an awful lot. So yes, I can see the steps forward, but sometimes I get frustrated that the progress is slower than I would like. In addition, I try not to lose endurance and strength on the rope.

You mentioned strong competition, are there really good climbers?

It’s crazy. There are not many new people in the Czech Republic, compared to France, the USA or Japan, we do not have such good conditions. I am by far the oldest of the girls in the national team. Such a veteran, which is funny when I’m 23. At the Czech Cups, I race with the 2008s. The younger ones go ahead, but often they just can’t stay in the top. I don’t know what it is. But there are really a lot of young talents growing up in France or Japan. Apparently they take people from other sports, maybe the walls are more accessible and there are more of them.

At the same time, there is talk of a big climbing boom in the Czech Republic.

Yes, I definitely feel him. Brno has always been a climbing city, but rather old-school. Now there are many new places and walls, climbing is a good joint activity. People go to the wall similar to going to the gym. Five years ago I came and knew everyone, now almost no one. On the one hand, it’s strange, on the other hand, I’m glad that people enjoy sports.

You are very active on the networks, is it an effort to popularize?

I’m not forcing anyone, I’m just passing on the fact that climbing makes me happy. And I have to say that the current popularization is quite enough for me. (laughs) There are really a lot of people, sometimes it’s not very possible. Sometimes it happens that you squeeze yourself a lot. Fortunately, we primarily train on Adam Ondra’s personal wall, where there is of course more space.

When you normally go to the center or to a public wall, how do others react to you?

Sometimes someone comes to say hello or take a picture. But since most of the climbers are new, they don’t know us that much. At the same time, they often do not know how to behave on the walls. I don’t think it’s bad at all, I just would prefer if they looked above each other more often and took turns on the boulders more. I would appreciate that more than greetings. And I have no problem giving advice to anyone at any time.

2024-04-20 10:58:51
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