The climber and trainer Eva Lopez (Toledo, 1970) has a restless nature -both physically and mentally-, so at the same time he started climbing he also started studying training. From there she went on to work as a personal climbing trainer and provide training in this field of training. She is currently a Doctor in Sports Performance and has conducted research on methods of improving finger strength. Coach of young people, amateurs, professionals, champions, aspirants… In this talk with her, you discover her passion for helping others overcome their own limits, regardless of where they are.
-How would you define Eva López for those who do not know her?
Like a climber who is happy practicing her sport and who is passionate about everything that has to do with it. Now I climb as much as I can, but I was in the elite until about 10 years ago. In 2005 I was the 6th woman in the world to chain an 8c and in 2013 I achieved my highest grade: an 8c+.
Furthermore, I really enjoy seeking to improve myself and I love asking myself questions.
-What does climbing mean to you?
It’s the most fun thing ever. It is overcoming myself, playing to solve the puzzle of how to climb while you exercise very intensely and learning about your body and your sensations, it is building a body and the skills you need to enjoy more. Then, managing to position yourself efficiently and apply optimal force in each movement, no matter how awkward or hard, is amazing.
And because we are a whole, I also love it because you learn to control your mind: to face the hardness or uncertainty of each movement; fight despite fatigue to achieve chaining; keep climbing despite the fear that falling sometimes gives you…
And it amazes me because they are aspects that we can extrapolate to our own lives. Setting goals, making plans to achieve them and learning to overcome obstacles, isn’t that what life itself consists of a lot?
– What do you think of all this explosion that climbing has experienced lately? From a niche life philosophy and somewhat introverted exploits, to there being climbers who the public now see almost as pop stars.
Theoretically, it could help professionalization, sponsorship and improve training conditions, for example. But unfortunately, it could only happen at a private level and based on capitalism, so we would then have to take care of education to go out into nature to climb and the sustainability of the environment.
On the contrary, at the state level we are experiencing a paradox that also occurs in other countries. Since climbing is already Olympic, each nation wants to have representation in Paris 2024, and it would seem that they are dedicating more funds to climbing. But that’s not exactly the case because they are doing it but only towards 1-2 people who they consider “with options.” And they leave the rest aside. This is a mistake, since by not working on the base of the pyramid of a group of 20-30 elite athletes, the tip of the iceberg will fail again in 4, 8, 12 years… and the problem will perpetuate.
– Any training recommendations for those who start climbing… And for those who climb at an amateur level, is there any advice that you always give?
First, always go to professionals with a degree, which is legally a degree or bachelor’s degree in Physical Activity and Sports Sciences and, secondly, the TD3 of climbing.
Then, they choose someone to train them individually and teach them to adjust the load daily. Because currently there are people “selling” training more than training athletes. And in the copy-paste system, the mildest consequence is not progressing or becoming demotivated and the most serious is getting injured or even giving up because you have wasted effort and money in vain.
In any case, I will say that in the first years the most important thing is to develop technical-tactical and, therefore, mental skills. Physical preparation would be intrinsic to these and not the opposite, which explains why we find people who do 20 pull-ups and hang one hand from a phalanx, but they do not know how to place their feet correctly, solve the puzzle or manage their emotions to maintain the concentration needed to climb.
Eva López giving a training workshop at Momentum Climbing Indoor, Salt Lake City (Utah, USA). Photo: Jon Vickers. / Photo: Jon Vickers
– What is the biggest challenge you have had in your life as a coach?
One is to recondition myself physically and mentally, both myself and my pupils, to return to the level they had after an injury. Another wonderful thing is the daily creativity that requires you to innovate and adjust methods and loads to someone who is in the elite, since any detail means breaking barriers.
-How have you seen the evolution of women in climbing from your beginnings until now?
Now there are more women climbing and starting out. But there is still a long way to go. In fact, in children’s classes we see half as many boys and girls. However, in adolescence, abandonment is greater in them, as is the case in almost all sports. And this is because we continue to live in a society that enhances, makes visible and rewards male achievements more than female achievements. For example, in order for the national team to have the parity it has had for only 2 years, we have experienced a true social battle. The excuse until now was that there was no level for women. Which was not and is not true, obviously. But hey, isn’t that the definition of machismo?
– What is the most rewarding thing that life has given you while climbing walls?
The development of confidence and enjoyment that comes with achieving each challenge I have set for myself. Dreaming about climbing a hard route and, after a period of training and mental struggles of all kinds, achieving it, creates a perceived self-efficacy that in some way is responsible for that “positive addiction” characteristic of those of us who climb.
– What inspires you that a teenager now dreams of winning an Olympic gold climbing?
I totally empathize. If I were a teenager now, I would also aspire to that and work to death to achieve it. Along the way, whether I achieved it or not, I would improve myself and become the best climber possible, which in reality has always been my true goal. I think it is one of the most beautiful things in life, finding motivations and working to materialize them.
– Would you like to be a coach for an Olympic medalist?
I have been lucky enough to train people who have won Spanish Championships and reached the highest level in rock at an international level; and as I said before, learning by training the elite is of extraordinary quality as well as an exciting task. So yes, now that I have leaned towards training young people who are mainly dedicated to competitive climbing, of course I would love to find someone with a chance of achieving that achievement.
– What do you like to do away from climbing?
Train, especially strength training. But in general, training and playing sports gives me life. And as for hobbies, right now I have movies and series.
– What does Eva López dream about?
With a more egalitarian world free of machismo in all its forms, from the most subtle (such as paternalism) to the most murderous. And a world more respectful of others, more empathetic and free of wild individualism; where critical thinking prevails that protects us from perpetuating hoaxes, stereotypes and, in general, from sowing hatred instead of collaborating to build a better world.
2024-05-23 16:08:06
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