In the New York Bronx, cradle of hip-hop – Writing Go Out! – Go Out!

Long marginalized, the only district of New York located in the mainland of the country is experiencing spectacular gentrification.

Bernard Pichon
Text and pictures

“What image do you have of the Bronx? », asks Flora, a French-speaking guide, to the few travelers who have chosen to explore Mott Haven, a less touristy part of the Big Apple… it is a question of grasping the prejudices to be broken down during some three hours of pedestrian visit. As soon as you exit the metro, giant cranes and other construction machinery testify to the ongoing metamorphosis. In the Sobro (south of the arrondissement), we are rehabilitating, building, redesigning the urban landscape of what – not so long ago – was considered a shady area. Would the Bronx remain conflicted? “There is a kind of reverse racism, where whites can be assimilated to the promoters responsible for the gentrification of the sector and the related inflation”, analyzes Flora, while designating a participatory garden where one mixes without problem in growing vegetables.

Essentials
The three most popular visits to the Bronx are the Zoo – the largest animal park in the United States – the Yankees Stadium (baseball) and the Botanical Garden (New York Botanical Garden). But since it is a question of getting off the beaten track, we will aim for a few less popular addresses that highlight local diversity. Unsurprisingly, music oozes everywhere. The pioneers of the genre – and its current stars – such DJ Spynfo – are displayed on storefronts and on murals. Would this culture be to the Bronx what rock’n roll is to Memphis? It takes us back to the 1970s, when block parties became popular, notably on the initiative of Jamaican and Caribbean immigrants, joined by black Americans. The DJs of these festive gatherings integrate funk and soul into their melting pot, then rap. A visual aesthetic develops in parallel.

Innovations
The creativity of young entrepreneurs is mind-blowing, and not just at this hairdressing salon which incorporates a saucy boutique. Find out why a nearby bar-restaurant – Charlie’s – is exclusively dedicated to famous “Charles” from around the world: Chaplin, Charlie Parker, etc. ! A little further on, a young designer has managed to develop his brand of sportswear to the point of dedicating a showcase – UPNYC – to luxury worthy of Fifth Avenue, while old dwellings are transformed into a hive open to artists in search of ‘workshop. It’s the KreateHub.