There are villages born to be oases of peace, emotions, beauty. Among these, cloaked in a medieval charm that transports you far in time, a small and charming town that gives those who visit it the sensation of being almost in another dimension, where history and nature seem to speak and understand each other, revealing how much it can be a territory full of surprises.
Città della Pieve, the Umbrian village that resembles an eagle
The splendid Umbrian village of Pieve city it stands at a height of 508 meters above sea level, in a privileged and panoramic position on top of a hill, a few kilometers from the border with Tuscany and near Lazio. The gaze embraces the Lake Trasimeno (also acclaimed by CNN) and the Val di Chiana, and gets lost in the generous surrounding countryside. Scenery and atmosphere herald the continuation of an ancient and authentic lifestyle.
As early as 1250, the town assumed its current urban layout in the shape of an eagle, symbol of Emperor Frederick II of Swabia, who advances menacingly towards Rome. The territory was divided into three portions, “the third parties”, which correspond to the three different parts of the eagle, also symbolizing the three social classes of the time. Thus, the Terziere Castello or Class of knights, which represented the aristocracy, corresponds to the head of the bird of prey, facing the direction of the capital, to the belly the Terziere Borgo Dentro, i.e. the bourgeoisie, while in the wing and in the tail there is the Terziere Casalino or Classe dei Pedoni, in reference to the peasants.
Città della Pieve: a bit of history
Although there are no records to prove it, the hill where Città della Pieve stands was inhabited since Etruscan times. The origins of the inhabited center date back to the 7th century, a period in which the Lombards exercised their power over the Duchy of Tuscia, and although today the village is part of the province of Perugiathe archaeological materials found in the area suggest that it once belonged to Chiusi.
The name comes from one Pieve which was built in honor of Saints Gervasio and Protasio. Initially, it was called City of Castel della Pieve, due to the presence of the walls dating back to the 11th century, however the name was replaced with the name we all know today, because it turned out to be too long and easily confused with the locality of Città di Castello. The village is known for being the birthplace of Peter Vannuccisaid “The Perugino” the most important exponent of Umbrian painting of the fifteenth century who was also the master of Raffaello.
The historic center and the alleys that tell the story of the past
Impossible not to be charmed by medieval old town of Città della Pieve, nestled on the hill that offers a highly suggestive view. The urban environment has become unmistakable for buildings in brick, the local hand-made terracotta, with a characteristic color that changes from light pink to a browner shade and which is still produced today with respect for tradition. Entering the alleys is a total immersion in the past. You get lost in an inviting labyrinth of suggestive corners, places of memory, spaces full of emotions that have represented and still represent points of encounter and life.
We are surprised by how the urban shirt presents unchanged solutions typical of first communal civilization. The wide and curved streets show the presence of the class of knights who went to war on horseback, while the narrower and more fragmented ones indicate the class of pedestrians, urbanized peasants, who used the bow and the crossbow. Thus in the clash between the two classes, the knights could escape the fire of pedestrians through the curvature of the streets, while the latter defended themselves thanks to the structure of the alleys impenetrable to the horse.
What to see in Città della Pieve
In the medieval urban structure, architectures in the Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles run after each other, which give the village an incredible artistic vitality. There are many monuments that are worth visiting, including the Cathedral of Saints Gervasio and Protasio, which houses the works of two great painters from Città della Pieve, Perugino and Pomarancio. Inside the monuments of the town you can admire the numerous works created by the hand of Vannucci, such as the extraordinary “Adoration of the Magi” hosted atOratory of Santa Maria dei Bianchi.
Notable the Roccawith five towers, the Corgna Palacenow home to the municipal library and temporary exhibitions, Palazzo Bandini and Palazzo Baglioni, the Civic tower, built in the 12th century, and the Bishop’s tower, a watchtower presumably built in 1326.
However, one of the most famous attractions of Città della Pieve is the Kissing Women Alley, along via Vannucci, considered one of the narrowest streets in Italy. Probably built to separate neighbors who were quarreling with each other, it has transformed over time into the alley of lovers.
Events not to be missed
Every year, close to August 15th, the Palio of the Terzieri, an event that lasts 12 days and ends with a costume parade and with the Bull hunting. The knights recall the ancient custom, challenging each other in the art of archery, hitting silhouettes representing the breed of Chianina bulls fixed on mobile platforms, while about seven hundred people parade through the most important streets of the center, wearing wonderful clothes of yesteryearto represent the various social classes of the past, such as knights, ladies and peasants.
Another really exciting event is the colorful one Infiorata of San Luigi Gonzaga, patron of the Terziere Casalino, which takes place in the month of June. The appointment traditionally marks the beginning of the Pievese summer events, and each edition is unique, original and unrepeatable, with an ever-changing theme. The infioratori work on the creation of a carpet of about 1000 square meters, placing flowers and essences of the Umbrian territory until the realization of the annual theme.
During the Easter period however, the Exhibition Market, with the display of agricultural and food products, handicrafts and local ingenuity. Among the events not to be missed is poi “Saffron”, festival held in autumn and celebrates one of the most important symbols of the village, formerly known as “crocus”. Do you think that the production of saffron in Città della Pieve is already attested in documents dating back to the XIII century.
Nature and attractions nearby
There are so many activities to do here, from guided urban trek to a holiday all about nature and wellness, from food and wine tours to experiences dedicated to families. And there is no shortage of attractions just outside the city walls, including the church of San Francesco, today shrine of Our Lady of Fatima, and the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi, with the fresco by Perugino depicting the “Deposition from the Cross”. In the surroundings, it meets instead Santa Maria degli Angelia Franciscan hermitage which looks like a Gothic building with a bell gable.
Lovers of breathtaking landscapes will find in what surrounds Città della Pieve the harmonious interweaving of Umbrian, Tuscan and Lazio imprints married to the grace of the rolling hills that are colored by the magnetic brightness imprinted in Perugino’s paintings, by the greenery that frames the countryside all surrounded by the intense rosé of the terracotta.
