The Invisible Race: Andrews and Egloff Clash for the Everest Speed Record Without Oxygen

At 17,598 feet, the air at Mount Everest Base Camp is thin, cold, and currently thick with a silent, professional tension. While hundreds of climbers are focused on the singular goal of reaching the summit, two men are playing a different, far more dangerous game. Tyler Andrews and Karl Egloff are not just climbing the world’s highest peak; they are hunting a ghost from 1998.

The target is the Everest speed record without oxygen on the south side—a mark of 20 hours and 24 minutes set by Kazi Sherpa nearly three decades ago. For most, reaching the summit is a lifetime achievement. For Andrews and Egloff, the summit is merely the finish line of a sprint through the “Death Zone.”

This is not a coordinated expedition. There are no shared tents, no exchanged weather reports, and no mutual strategies. It is an involuntary head-to-head race between two of the world’s most elite speed alpinists, separated by different teams but united by a singular, obsessive ambition.

The Contenders: Data vs. Instinct

Tyler Andrews represents the modern era of extreme mountaineering. An American athlete known for a data-driven approach to the mountains, Andrews has built a reputation on pushing the absolute limits of human endurance. His quest is not merely to break the record, but to shatter it. Andrews has publicly stated his belief that he can conquer the ascent in as little as 14 to 15 hours—a leap in performance that would redefine what is physiologically possible at 29,032 feet.

Across the camp, Karl Egloff brings a different pedigree. The Swiss-Ecuadorian speed alpinist is a seasoned veteran of the world’s highest peaks, already holding record times on four of the seven highest mountains on Earth. While Andrews targets a radical reduction in time, Egloff’s primary objective is to breach the summit in under 24 hours without artificial oxygen. For Egloff, the race is as much about precision and efficiency as it is about raw speed.

The psychological divide between the two is stark. Despite their proximity at Base Camp, the rivalry is characterized by a professional distance. “He has his objectives and I have mine,” Egloff has noted, emphasizing that the two are operating on completely independent trajectories.

The 20:24 Barrier

To understand the magnitude of this pursuit, one must understand the 20 hour and 24 minute benchmark. Set by Kazi Sherpa in 1998, this record has stood as a testament to the limits of anaerobic capacity. Climbing without supplemental oxygen means the body is operating on a fraction of the oxygen available at sea level, leading to rapid cognitive decline, extreme fatigue, and the constant threat of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).

For those unfamiliar with the terminology, “without supplemental oxygen” means the climbers are not using bottled oxygen to enrich the air they breathe. At the summit of Everest, there is only about one-third of the oxygen available at sea level. Most commercial climbers use oxygen to stay warm and keep their minds clear; speed climbers forgo this to reduce weight and test the absolute limits of their biology.

Breaking a 28-year-old record requires more than just fitness; it requires a perfect alignment of weather, health, and luck. As reported by Lacrux, both men spent the weeks leading up to May acclimatizing their bodies to the altitude, preparing their lungs for the brutal exertion of a non-stop push to the top.

The X-Factor: The Tourist Bottleneck

While the physical toll of the mountain is the primary adversary, a more modern problem threatens to derail both attempts: the crowds. May is the peak window for Everest summits, and the south side is often plagued by “traffic jams,” particularly at the Hillary Step and the Yellow Band.

For a traditional climber, a two-hour wait in a queue at 28,000 feet is a frustrating but manageable delay. For a speed record attempt, it is catastrophic. Every minute spent standing still in the Death Zone is a minute of oxygen depletion and energy loss. The prospect of being trapped behind a slow-moving line of commercial tourists is a “serious problem” that could render the fastest athlete in the world irrelevant.

This creates a tactical dilemma. Do they launch their bid early, risking unstable weather, or wait for a clear window and risk being caught in the summit rush? The timing of their push will be as critical as their cardiovascular capacity.

The Technicality of Speed Alpinism

Speed alpinism differs fundamentally from traditional mountaineering. Traditional climbs involve a “zigzag” approach: climbing to a higher camp, descending to a lower camp to recover, and repeating the process to gradually acclimatize. This is the “slow and steady” method designed for survival.

Andrews and Egloff are employing a high-intensity strategy. Their goal is to minimize the time spent in the most dangerous zones. By moving faster, they reduce their overall exposure to extreme cold and hypoxia, but they increase the immediate strain on their hearts and lungs. It is a high-risk, high-reward gamble.

According to Men’s Journal, Andrews’ approach is heavily informed by data, treating the mountain as a laboratory for human performance. This intersection of sports science and mountaineering is what makes this particular race a focal point for the global athletic community.

Summary of the Record Chase

What Happens Next?

As of May 8, 2026, both athletes remain at Base Camp, monitoring the jet stream and the movement of other expeditions. The coming days will be decisive. A stable weather window will trigger the ascent, and the world will watch to see if the 1998 record finally falls.

The outcome will likely be decided not just by who is the strongest athlete, but by who navigates the human congestion of the mountain most effectively. If Andrews hits his 14-hour target, it will be one of the greatest athletic achievements in the history of the Himalayas.

The next confirmed checkpoint will be the movement of both climbers from Base Camp toward Camp I. We will provide live updates as the weather window opens.

Do you think the “tourist queues” will be the deciding factor in this race, or will raw athleticism prevail? Let us know in the comments below.