The Netherlands, a nation synonymous with speed skating, recently returned from the Winter Olympics with an impressive haul of 20 medals, ten of them gold, securing a third-place finish in the medal table. But beyond Olympic glory, speed skating is deeply woven into the Dutch cultural fabric, particularly long-distance races on natural ice – events that are increasingly threatened by a changing climate.
The most iconic of these races is the Elfstedentocht, or “Eleven Cities Tour,” a grueling trek through the province of Friesland. Last held in 1997, the race, first run in 1909, has become a symbol of Dutch winter tradition, and a poignant reminder of what’s being lost as temperatures rise. The search for reliable ice has led Dutch skaters to look further afield, to Austria and Sweden, to maintain the spirit of these long-distance races alive.
A Tradition on Thin Ice
The Elfstedentocht, nearly 200 kilometers (120 miles) in length, traces a route through eleven historic Frisian cities: Leeuwarden, Sneek, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren, Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, Franeker, and Dokkum, before returning to Leeuwarden. The race isn’t simply a competition; it’s a cultural phenomenon. Yet, the conditions required to hold the event – at least 15 centimeters (6 inches) of ice along the entire course – are becoming increasingly rare. Alternative venues have emerged.
In 1989, Austrian authorities offered a solution: the Weißensee in Carinthia. Located at a high altitude, the lake reliably freezes, providing a 12-kilometer loop suitable for long-distance skating. The first “Alternative Elfstedentocht” was held there, and it has since become a yearly tradition, with races over 50, 100, and 200 kilometers. Nine years ago, another alternative sprung up in Luleå, northern Sweden, where skaters race from harbor to harbor on frozen seas.
A Dutch Outpost Abroad
While the Swedish races offer a picturesque setting, complete with dog sledding, snowball fights, and a winter market, they haven’t quite captured the same fervor as the Elfstedentocht. The Weißensee, however, has become a significant event, drawing over 5,000 Dutch participants annually, with live coverage on Dutch television. Organizer Hendrik-Jan van den Bogaart has even claimed it’s “the largest Dutch village outside of Holland,” a statement that might raise eyebrows among fans of the Dutch national football team, the “Orange Army,” who regularly travel in large numbers to events like the Austrian Grand Prix in Spielberg.
Despite the success of the alternatives, the dream of the Elfstedentocht returning to Friesland remains alive. Every winter, as temperatures drop, a sense of anticipation – the “Elfstedenkoorts” or “Eleven Cities Fever” – grips the nation. In 2012, the country came close, but warmer weather ultimately dashed hopes, forcing skaters to once again head to Austria.
A Race Steeped in History and Tradition
The Elfstedentocht has a storied past. The 1963 race, held in brutally cold conditions with fierce snowstorms, saw only 69 of over 9,000 starters reach the finish line. Reinier Paping, the winner, became a national hero. The race is steeped in tradition, and even seemingly minor infractions are taken seriously. In 1997, Olympic gold medalist Piet Kleine was disqualified for failing to get his card stamped at a checkpoint, despite video evidence showing he had passed through it. Women were only allowed to participate in the Elfstedentocht starting in 1985.
The alternative races offer their own advantages. Skaters on the Weißensee can reach speeds of up to 60 kilometers per hour, and the 200-kilometer record stands at just over five hours. In 2006, Dutch organizers secured a 100-year agreement to continue holding the “Alternative Elfstedentocht” on the Weißensee, though the long-term viability of even that venue is now being questioned due to warming temperatures.
Recent Victories and a Lingering Hope
This past weekend, Veerle van Koppen (women’s) and Daan Gelling (men’s) were crowned the overall winners of the long-distance tour in Luleå, Sweden, in 2026. While it may not have garnered widespread attention, it was a significant event within the Dutch skating community.
The search for reliable ice continues, and the future of the Elfstedentocht remains uncertain. But the passion for long-distance skating endures, driving Dutch skaters to seek out frozen landscapes wherever they can be found, preserving a beloved tradition in a changing world.
The next major event for Dutch long-distance skaters will be the races on the Weißensee in January 2027, pending suitable ice conditions. Stay tuned to Archysport for updates as the skating season unfolds.
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