For her: upgrade from teenage love
With the revival of the 1990s, devotional items from the American lifestyle found their way back into wardrobes. Gen Z, for example, wears T-shirts and sweatshirts with university inscriptions, as if they had all studied at Yale – but Ivy League status is available for a few euros at low-cost retailers like H&M. Even The Gap has long since started offering jersey goods with plain-style logo inscriptions. So it was only a matter of time before the “Varsity” jacket made a comeback. It started in the coolest vintage shops in the world, then spread to the so-called street style labels, and now the item has even arrived on the international catwalks. The real trends have always happened last there for a long time! But that’s not a bad thing, it’s just right for adults who would like to wear a baseball blouson again for nostalgia reasons, but are a little ashamed – and are now used to better material on their bodies. So the designer college jackets may not be original, but they are a wearable upgrade from a childhood love, as we can see here at Kenzo: shoulders with leather, cut a little longer, color combination a little less like in the high school movie. So that’s how we define it, this fall’s transitional jacket that looks good over everything, from wide wool trousers to a silk dress – just not over jeans, that would simply have aged poorly.
For him: The college colleague
Many elements of everyday US culture are so familiar through series and films that it is as if they had actually played a role in one’s own biography. Getting a refill of coffee in a diner, for example, or moving into your booth on the first day of college – all seen, read, and songs often heard. That’s probably why Halloween was so easy to implant in the rest of the world; everyone already knew pretty much what to do about it. College sports jackets, although not common in this country, have also become a familiar sight. They are part of every All-American sports tale and can always contain traces of baseball trading cards and horror films. It is not uncommon for the jackets with the thickly flocked names, numbers and symbols in films to be the hallmarks of hooligans or bullies who only made it to college with a sports scholarship. In the 1990s, the style of these “varsity” or “letterman jackets” first became popular across Europe, but now there are signs that quarterback fashion is making a comeback. Brands love these things, of course, because they can freely place their insignia on them, just like Heron Preston did his initials here. Although they are sporty-casual, the jackets are not easy to combine; in terms of taste, other US classics such as cargo pants and white T-shirts go quite well with them. But the wearer’s physiognomy also plays a role – lanky men appear slightly lost in it, while for stocky guys the cut reinforces the overall bulky appearance. So you should at least be in the B selection of the college team.
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