The report of one of the most beautiful and famous routes of Monte Colodri in Arco, Via Renata Rossi opened in 1979 by Roberto Bassi, Marco Furlani, Luigi Giacomelli and Elio Piffer. By Alberto De Giuli, mountain guide.
Colodri is the mountain of Arco, its east face from the late 70s offers true masterpieces for lovers of classic and sport climbing. For years a test bed for longer and more sustained adventures, the first classic routes were literally consumed by repetitions, making climbing unpleasant for many. The advent of the via plaisir, technically easier and with the flavor of a packaged snack, has caused classic lines such as the Sommadossi, Barbara and the Renata Rossi.
The Renata Rossi opened by Roberto Bassi, Marco Furlani, Luigi Giacomelli and Elio Piffer in 1979, it is one of the most beautiful routes in the Colodri. Dedicated to Renata who in 1984 became the first female mountain guide in Italy, the route follows a line of dihedrals and cracks in the center of the face, offering exposed and highly satisfying climbing along the entire itinerary.
The first pitch shared with the route Sommadossi it is very clear, in particular the first meters of the starting corner, after the first piton, could be very frightening and discourage any repeaters. Luckily this pitch is well bolted with bolts and some bolts, otherwise it would be difficult to integrate with fast protections. Those who have the desire and the courage to overcome this filter, from the third pitch, that of the beautiful red blade, will find themselves faced with an elegant and sustained climb, where the rock is no longer shiny than the classic Dolomite routes as popular as the Yellow Edge at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo or the Schubert at Piz Ciavazes, just to name two examples.
The Renata Rossi it is an equipped route in the complex, the stops are in cemented rings where there is no solid plant where you can stop to secure the second. Along the pitches there are pegs and bolts in the key sections, however a series of friends from 0.3 to 3 is required to integrate the protections, the red blade pull is all to be protected. 10-11 referrals are sufficient. The pitches are almost always sustained, the difficulties constantly travel on the V + VI, some passages on the pitch of the flared white dihedral I would say that it approaches the VII-. Given the line of ascent, the climbing is very alpine and the only real slab, cracked, is only at the last length.
The summit cross is a few steps from the exit of the route, the descent to the car is fast along the aided path of the Colodri. Here the rock is really shiny! Pay attention especially if you go down in the dark or in case of rain. In the latter case, you can always opt for a longer but easy descent, following the tourist path that goes around the Colodri towards the west and passes through the town center before reaching the parking lot and the car. As for times, 10 minutes from the car are more than enough, the starting dihedral is evident thanks to a red writing Via Sommadossi, a few meters to the right a fish-graffiti on the rock and a bolt at the top that identifies the start of the via Segantini. We took 4 hours to climb, then following the aided path of the Colodri you can reach the car in 45 minutes.
by Alberto De Giuli
FORM: Via Renata Rossi, Monte Colodri, Arco
Info: www.albertodegiuli.com, Instagram Alberto De Giuli, FB Alberto De Giuli
Share this article
.
