“The best, the company”, they have repeated these days Martin Elias, Marc Toralles Y Bru busom, the architects of a new and daring itinerary along the west face of Grand charmoz, which culminated last week, in the massif of Mont Blanc, and they have baptized as
Le grand charme
(ED / M6 +, 6B). The tuning and the good vibes are baladíes ingredients at the time of immersing yourself in activities in which you play the type, fast and minimalist climbs in the alpine winter.
The three climbers completed their challenge without wasting time, in less than two days. An unprecedented ascent of 650 meters of unevenness and the only route opened in winter along the western slope of the Grand charmoz.
“We left on Wednesday 22 at mid-morning of Chamonix, we went up with the cable car to the Plan de l’Aiguille, we skied about two and a half hours until we reached the base of the wall and climbed about 250 meters to a ledge where we took out the bags and slept, ”Toralles said this afternoon, already from back home. “On Thursday, around eight o’clock – he adds -, we put the bags in a backpack and threw it down, before leaving for the top, which already involves a point of compromise because if it was the case we could not sleep on the mountain in the descent”.
Toralles continues explaining that it is a route “of difficulty maintained, there is no easy climbing section, there are parts with poor quality rock where we could not put safe ”. The first lengths are of mixed climbing and the final stretch forced them to take off the crampons to evolve in free through the rock. The three reached the summit at night, at eight o’clock, and spent about three hours rappelling to the base of the wall and another two to go down skiing until Chamonix.
Climbing here in summer is a suicide ”
Thursday’s day gave them no truce, between 16 and 17 hours tied to the ice and the rock, which not rarely proved unreliable. It is a winter route, “climbing here in summer is a suicide,” warns Toralles.
“You scare? I threw a rock but I warned, Martin played in a flash, that Toralles says that in two or three weeks he will return to Chamonix with his friends to explore new challenges. The Catalan climber details that Le grand charme It is the only road opened in winter by the west slope that reaches the top because one of the mythical paths, Birthright, from Mark twight Y Scott Backes, just about 200 meters from the highest point. Toralles makes it clear that it was Martin who had his eye on this itinerary.
From Peru to the Himalayas
The Shisha Pangma in Alpine style to prepare the return to the G-IV
This year’s Toralles agenda includes returning to Siula Grande, in Peru, with Busom and Roger Cararach. Last summer a rockfall reached Cararach and forced them to leave. He also plans to ascend next fall, in alpine style, his first eight-foot, the southern face of the Shisha Pangma (Nepal), a sort of preparation to return to Gasherbrum IV, with Oriol Baró, in 2021 and see how he reacts to the altitude. It should be remembered that last October Toralles, together with Roger Cararach and Alberto Fernández, signed in the Nepalese Himalayas the southern pillar of the Tengi Ragi Tau, a demanding climbing on a mixed terrain of rock and ice. ”To Shisha Pangma I will go with Bru and maybe also with Martín ”, concreta Toralles.